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  • Water In Fuel Light

    Got cold last night. Truck doesn't want to start this morning, cause I didn't plug it in.

    After several attempts at just cycling the glow plugs I noticed something I had never seen before... the Water In Fuel light.

    I just filled up last night at the same place I always do.

    Could it just be fllashing this light because it doesn't want to crank?

    This couldn't come on from water in my veggie right?

    2000 F350.
    Vegistrokin since 08/23/08

  • #2
    probably got some watery diesel. it happens.

    Comment


    • #3
      My water in fuel light comes on when I turn the key before starting. Are you saying that yours is flashing or it never came on before when you turn the key?? I'm interested in hearing about this. I thought that if the light came on while running that there is some water in the bottom of the bowl that needs to be drained.
      2002 7.3 Excursion Limited V3 w/40 gal RDS Tank, +50 gal or 100 gal aux cargo tank,
      AFE Magnum Flow Air Intake, 4" Turbo back Diamondeye exhaust,
      6.0 Tranny cooler upgrade, Edge Evo2 Gryphon, V & Modified B Code leaf suspension
      BTS Transmission W/ 1.0 exhaust housing,Snow water/meth injection.Riffraff Engine Rebuild(kit) @315k .30 over pistons, CNC Fab HPOP, 406injectors.com 160cc single shots.

      2002 F350 2WD CCLB 7.3 Bone Stock "Rusty"

      Comment


      • #4
        spring cleaning

        Common problem this time of year from condensation in the fuel bowl.Put a pail or bucket under center of engine,behind radiator.Take that purty lil powerstroke plastic piece off the fuel filter area.With engine cold,reach down the backside of the fuel bowl on passenger side(under fuel filter),find bright yellow lever,pull lever up,this will drain your fuel bowl,keep draining until you smell diesel real strong.Put lever back in original position,put plastic poerstroke piece back on.I always cycle the ingition twice after this to makes sure fuel bowl filled up(same as cycling glow plugs,wait until all noise stops,then do second cycle),know go start your truck.......................I'll be ,for the good news.....................greasy
        2000 7.3X V3 So much fun,so little time,Support small Oil,burn WVO,Free and greasy down the road I go!!!!!!!!!!completely self sufficient and proud of it. (Wood furnace.....X.......solar pontoon....solarsheat twins this summer.....I don't Know much.......I'm just a hillbilly with too many guns..............

        Comment


        • #5
          Like greasy said, but I don't take the plastic thingy off - just reach in there and getrdone. And don't close the valve until it stops draining (expect about 8-10 oz's. Do remember to cycle the key a couple times after draining - that is how the air is 'purged' from filter back to diesel tank!

          Sometimes, there is enough sludge in filter bowl that it will not drain on its own. Leave drain open and turn key on (activating fuel pump). Turn key off when fuel comes out. If this is the case, I would go ahead and change filter and clean bowl.

          I also always add a peice of hose to the end of the steel line the bowl drains from. I make this line long enough I can slip a water or soda bottle under it and collect the contents of filter bowl. This way I can inspect it and dispose of the fuel more easier... I've been asked many times over the years what that hose dangling down there was for, to which I always answer it is the overflow for the flux capacitor system or something. :chuckles:

          Otherwise, the WIF light as well as all the other lights are supposed to come on for a few seconds when key is turned on - bulb check. Any that STAY on are legit. I'm surprised ya didn't get a SES lite with a no-start??

          Another arguement for a fuel pressure gauge IMHO.
          2001 F350 XLT 4x4, dually flatbed. 6637 air filter, single-shot injectors, straight-piped, BTS tunes, 200 gal main VO tank - 180k greasy miles
          2000 Excursion Limited 4x4. V3, AIS intake, BTS trans & tunes - 120k VO miles
          veggiegarage.com authorized installer

          RIP X & Toyhauler - you served us well.

          Comment


          • #6
            'because you didn't plug it in' is bugging me. You mean it normally won't start unless you plug it in? My 7.3's still start pretty easily at 0*F without plugging in, they are just 'grumpy' for a minute or two while they warm up. When 1/2 my GP's weren't working, the F350 would STILL start after 2nd or 3rd cycle of GP's...
            2001 F350 XLT 4x4, dually flatbed. 6637 air filter, single-shot injectors, straight-piped, BTS tunes, 200 gal main VO tank - 180k greasy miles
            2000 Excursion Limited 4x4. V3, AIS intake, BTS trans & tunes - 120k VO miles
            veggiegarage.com authorized installer

            RIP X & Toyhauler - you served us well.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by skyskijason View Post
              'because you didn't plug it in' is bugging me. You mean it normally won't start unless you plug it in? My 7.3's still start pretty easily at 0*F without plugging in, they are just 'grumpy' for a minute or two while they warm up. When 1/2 my GP's weren't working, the F350 would STILL start after 2nd or 3rd cycle of GP's...
              That kind of caught my attention as well. While mine is a 6.0, it'

              What temps we talking here Jack?
              Greasin & Grinin
              Vegi oil powered since Aug 08
              2006 F-250 PSD - CC, Lariat, 4X4 - Vegistroke converted 1/27/13!!
              2008 F-250 PSD - CC, Lariat, 4X4 - Sold
              2005 F-250 PSD - CC, Lariat, 4X4 - Sold

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by skyskijason View Post
                'because you didn't plug it in' is bugging me. You mean it normally won't start unless you plug it in? My 7.3's still start pretty easily at 0*F without plugging in, they are just 'grumpy' for a minute or two while they warm up. When 1/2 my GP's weren't working, the F350 would STILL start after 2nd or 3rd cycle of GP's...


                Low 20s this morning... not sure how low it got overnight, but it usually starts.

                I just replaced my alternator, so maybe my batteries just weren't up to the job yet.

                I don't recall ever seeing that light. BUT when my key is turned to the on position I'm usually watching the wait to start light or I'm turning down the radio or shutting off the heat. I don't think I could miss it though.

                I'll have my neighbor come over in a bit with his battery charger. (My brother has mine.) While I'm charging I'll drain the filter housing and cycle it. Its still 27* out, and it isn't getting any warmer today.
                Vegistrokin since 08/23/08

                Comment


                • #9
                  So I tried to drain the fuel filter housing. I opened the valve and waited for the fuel.

                  Nothing.

                  Whatever... its probably clogged. At this point I had the charger on the truck for a little bit and decided to turn the pig over. The block heater had been on for several hours now.

                  Turns over like butter and starts running on... about 3 cylinders. Died. Tried again... same thing. One more time, and now it isn't even going to start.

                  WTF.

                  Try to purge the valve again... nothing. Finally I pulled off the cover and opened up the housing. Dry. No wonder is isn't draining. Have my neighbor hit the key. No fuel...

                  Crawl under the truck. BTW - We have a couple inches of snow again. It was 60s earlier in the month. Now he primes again and the pump isn't turning on. Put the V3 in off, from Auto, hoping that it was the oil kit leaving the pump off. Nothing.

                  Ah ha... the jumper.

                  Throw the jumper in, hit the key. Yay... fuel pump is on.
                  Turn off key... turn back on. Repeat x3. Turn it over and she fired right up. On all 8 cylinders even!!!

                  So... now the truck runs but I can't take out the jumper. Would that have anything to do with the bad pressure switch or could I have bigger problems? I don't mind running around on diesel until my pressure switch comes in, but can that jumper be permanent? I don't want to hurt anything else if that is just a "get it home" kind of fix.

                  I know you guys are in the middle of a move and everything... but is there an ETA on the pressure switches?
                  Vegistrokin since 08/23/08

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jack_Toepfer View Post
                    Low 20s this morning... not sure how low it got overnight, but it usually starts.

                    I just replaced my alternator, so maybe my batteries just weren't up to the job yet.

                    I don't recall ever seeing that light. BUT when my key is turned to the on position I'm usually watching the wait to start light or I'm turning down the radio or shutting off the heat. I don't think I could miss it though.

                    I'll have my neighbor come over in a bit with his battery charger. (My brother has mine.) While I'm charging I'll drain the filter housing and cycle it. Its still 27* out, and it isn't getting any warmer today.
                    Hope that's an easy fix for you Jack. How old are your batteries by the way?

                    The first real cold weather of this winter got mine last year. Truck had been cranking slow and all it took was the first night or two into the low 30s and mine were toast.

                    I usually plug mine in when it's getting into the mid to upper 20s, but I've never had a problem with it starting due to the cold other than when my batteries died.
                    Greasin & Grinin
                    Vegi oil powered since Aug 08
                    2006 F-250 PSD - CC, Lariat, 4X4 - Vegistroke converted 1/27/13!!
                    2008 F-250 PSD - CC, Lariat, 4X4 - Sold
                    2005 F-250 PSD - CC, Lariat, 4X4 - Sold

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      could be diesel pump wiring between key switch and pump,I believe its 11.8 volts required,but the jump fix works on the principle if theres juice it goes to the diesel pump.You may be bypassing a safety feature.When my diesel pump went I acted like 3 cyl. were firing.I would put a volt meter on the power going from keyswitch to pump(#2),as that is what you truck starts on,I fear you have only bandaided the issue..............If it is a pump let me know and I'll call some people,try to save ya some coin..........greasy
                      2000 7.3X V3 So much fun,so little time,Support small Oil,burn WVO,Free and greasy down the road I go!!!!!!!!!!completely self sufficient and proud of it. (Wood furnace.....X.......solar pontoon....solarsheat twins this summer.....I don't Know much.......I'm just a hillbilly with too many guns..............

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The pressure switch only turns on and off the diesel pump. It does not supply the pump with power other than what the truck usually sends to the pump. If the jumper fixed the problem I bet the switch is bad. You can still use the veggie, but both pumps will be running. I'm sure they will send you another switch ASAP. The jumper shouldn't cause any problems and should be no problem lasting until the new switch comes.
                        '01 F350, lariat LE, cc, lb, drw, TSP 6pos. chip w/ swamps ss tunes, FF stage 1.5, MBRP 4" turbo back, cooling mist water injection.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Marv View Post
                          Hope that's an easy fix for you Jack. How old are your batteries by the way?
                          Batteries are fine. Thats what Autozone said. Now that they are charged... he truck turns over like butter.

                          Originally posted by greasyX View Post
                          could be diesel pump wiring between key switch and pump,I believe its 11.8 volts required,but the jump fix works on the principle if theres juice it goes to the diesel pump.You may be bypassing a safety feature.When my diesel pump went I acted like 3 cyl. were firing.I would put a volt meter on the power going from keyswitch to pump(#2),as that is what you truck starts on,I fear you have only bandaided the issue..............If it is a pump let me know and I'll call some people,try to save ya some coin..........greasy
                          I believe the truck seemed like it was running on 3 cylinders because there wasn't any fuel at all. It just burned what was in the rails and died. I'll check the power to the pump ASAP. You really think that by bypassing the V3 with the jumper I could really do more harm than good? I really thought the V3 was the problem and I just removed it from the system?

                          Originally posted by greasedltn View Post
                          The pressure switch only turns on and off the diesel pump. It does not supply the pump with power other than what the truck usually sends to the pump. If the jumper fixed the problem I bet the switch is bad. You can still use the veggie, but both pumps will be running. I'm sure they will send you another switch ASAP. The jumper shouldn't cause any problems and should be no problem lasting until the new switch comes.
                          This is what I was thinking. If the switch finally let go all the way it would cut power to the diesel pump. Thats why when the switch was on its way out the light on the V3 switch would be illuminated at all times... it was thinking the system should have been on.
                          Vegistrokin since 08/23/08

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If you run it that way,just make sure you vent hose doesn't sit on your bed floor,as the only issue I can seen would be no protection of over filling your WVO during purge,if your check valves work good,don't sweat it.In theory the engine will draw as much fuel as needed from either source if the switch is faulty,thus throwing the purge fluid displacement off,it won't under purge but the flow is no longer pre-calculated by flow rate.If you had my rig with the tank in the cargo area,you'd have something to worry about.Just keep your tanks about half full and you should be alright...............greasy
                            2000 7.3X V3 So much fun,so little time,Support small Oil,burn WVO,Free and greasy down the road I go!!!!!!!!!!completely self sufficient and proud of it. (Wood furnace.....X.......solar pontoon....solarsheat twins this summer.....I don't Know much.......I'm just a hillbilly with too many guns..............

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              My drain follows the other hoses out of the bed... so I might leak a little but not into the bed. Wouldn't that jumper remove the V3 from the entire system? I would think the purge wouldn't even occur anymore. The truck shuts down w/o the purge and run-time that it used to because the V3 is off.
                              Vegistrokin since 08/23/08

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