V3 Total AMP Draw

[powdrluvr]

Anybody know the total amp draw of the V3 system when on? How about total amps with the upgraded fuel pump for the 95? Two alternators, four months?

[VTVegiPower]

Interesting you bring this up. I have had my V3 on my 96 for a week and just smoked my alternator today. I had it rebuilt this afternoon and the guy at the shop said that was typical for that alternator at 120k miles. I hope I don't fry it again in 4 months.

[greasedltn]

If the system is wired properly, you shouldn't have a problem. Draw wise you are only adding a FASS pump and guage. The controll unit draws minimal power as does the guage. The pump draws the most power and that is determined by which pump you have, the 12V or 24V. The thing about the pump draw is that when the pump builda up pressure it turns off your factory pump, which offsets the draw. The system in whole shouldn't draw more that 20-25amps total, but that's just a guess.

[VTVegiPower]

If the system is wired properly, you shouldn't have a problem. Draw wise you are only adding a FASS pump and guage. The controll unit draws minimal power as does the guage. The pump draws the most power and that is determined by which pump you have, the 12V or 24V. The thing about the pump draw is that when the pump builda up pressure it turns off your factory pump, which offsets the draw. The system in whole shouldn't draw more that 20-25amps total, but that's just a guess.

Our trucks never had a factory electric pump. We had to eliminate the mechanical pump and upgrade to an MSD electric pump to emulate the super-duty. So this is a new draw that was never present on these trucks. When I took my alternator to the Auto Electric shop to get it rebuilt the owner said that he was not surprised that this little extra made it kick the bucket, considering that it already had 120k miles on it. The wear inside the alternator was very easy to see. I'm just hoping that powdrluvr got a bad alternator when he replaced his original. As for the amp draw, I know the large FASS pump draws in excess of 20amps, and my small FASS pump draws more that 15. I'm quite sure the heater jacket also has a 25amp fuse so thats a heavy draw too. I'm not sure what the MSD pump draws, but I should be able to check the inline fuse on it and get a good idea. I would say that this system draws in excess of 40amps at all times.

[powdrluvr]

Guessing 25 plus

I am guessing the whole system draws more then 25 amps. The Fass is probably less then 20, but adding another fuel gauge (1-5 amps?), the timer cards(2-10 amps ???), the heater jacket (5-20 Amps?), and the replacement electric pump (5-20 Amps?), and they all add up to some electric consumption.

I am also guessing the stock alternator is 75 amp. With full accessiories ON, the truck will usually consume about half of what the alternator puts out. So add 25 plus amps, and you are near full consumption.

On the other veggie trucks I have done, we were able to get a higher output alternator to overcome this. The 95 Ford I am told requires a new wiring harness making this a little more of a project in time and $$$. Good thing it is not my truck!

I did the install, and the owner now maintains it. Just like most veggie conversions, problems only begin after the install. Hopefully DFA chimes in and tells us the real answer to the amp draw question, I don't have time to play with my multi-meter.

[VTVegiPower]

According to my local Auto Electric shop, the alternator is 135 amp. But he also says that Ford alternators are junk. He says Ford starters are bulletproof be they've never made a good alternator. This guy has been rebuilding alternators and starters for 25+ years so I tend to believe him.

[powdrluvr]

135 Amps should be more then enough. That is usually what I have upgraded the Dodge's too, from 75 Amp. The truck owner is no longer on the Ford Alternator, I think the stock one lasted over 250K, might have been changed before, not sure. With less then one year on the V3, the truck has now smoked the first alternator, changed to a Carquest alternator, fried that one, and now on a warranty Carquest alternator. We'll see how long this one lasts. I don't think the Carquest alternator is 135 Amp. Maybe he should have gone to Ford for the part. He is on a couple year old batteries also. They hold a charge fine, but with the massive draw of the system, the alternator is probably working to hard, maybe??? New batteries and a bigger alternator is what I suggested, only a couple hundred bucks.

I am Dodge guy, every time his Ford breaks, or the V3 malfunctions, I get to learn something new.

[powdrluvr]

Searching around at thedieselstop.com, it seems stock are 130 Amp. Sounds like there are a couple upgrades out there. Dbelectrical was one mentioned. A 210 Amp, or a 190. A new wiring harness is in order.

Could be old batteries causing the problem also. I know they have been run low or dead a few times. From what I read that can help kill alternators.

It also sounds like Fords are already running near capacity with just a few accessories on. Still curious about the total amp draw of the V3?

35 Amps? Final guess.

[AK-greaseguy]

Alternator Issue??

Hello I have had no issue with my setup in the 1997. I have approx 4000 miles on the system. Normal voltage is shown. ?????

[Fordnut74]

Alright, so here is the Skinny on power. For 1997 there were three OEM Alternator options- 95, 130 and 210 amp. Standard for the 7.3 was the 130 amp option. So most of you will have an OEM 130 amp. To get striaght to the answer- system draw depends on options and pumps. The control cards draw less than an amp, so negligible there. The breakdown is as follows:

Heater Jacket- 16amps
24v pump 7amps
12v small pump 14amps
12v big pump 20amps
plus or minus 2amps for all items.

Most systems come with the 12v small or the 24v pump(more recently) putting nominal system draw at between 23-30amps. Now for the rest of the story:


. With the truck running at idle, and no accessories on, the truck draws about 16amps of current to keep running given time to level out for the initial draw of starting the truck. Listed below are some average draw numbers for various continuous draw items:

Truck running: 16amps
Headlights:
low 17amps
hi 19amps
Heater on high: 26amps
w/AC 32amps
typical radio 5amps

There are a few other monior items that will vary based on vehicle like interior lights, but those are the main items. So adding those up with the max values we get 72amps of draw, then with system at say 32amps we are now at 104amps of draw. And of course you never want the alternator maxed out, so with a 95a alternator we would be in trouble, but with the 130 you are in good shape assuming you don't have a bunch of other accessories. As you can see it adds up quick.

These numbers are also reflected on the high side, I seriously doubt that most of us always drive with the heater on high, headlights on high all the time. So in the end a stock diesel alternator is more than able to handle the load of our system.

[Marv]

Nothing beats getting the answer straight from the experts! Cool...

[fiveohpatrol]

12v small pump 14amps

What about when you're pulling 8500# through the mountains?

[Clay]

What about when you're pulling 8500# through the mountains?

Doesn't matter, the pump delivers fuel at the same rate if your idling or at WOT pulling a load.

[Marv]

Doesn't matter, the pump delivers fuel at the same rate if your idling or at WOT pulling a load.

Yeah, just think of it as an "on-off" switch type deal. It's either fully on, or fully off.

[Clay]

Nice avitar Jason