Glow Plugs

[Clay]

Well i got 3 GP codes so i will be needing to replace them...all 8.
WHo has done this before on a 6.0? Is it real difficult? I can see the plugs so i wouldn't think there would be much to it.

[Snake]

Clay, I have a good friend out here who is a diesel tech for Ford. If you need some directions/pointers/whatever, give me a shout and I'll try to get the two of you in touch.

--Snake

[Clay]

thanks Snake...i have talked to 3 diesel techs over on another forum and they all seem to think i'm not too mentally handicaped to handle this task so i believe now i just need to go find the parts cheap.
These GPs can be replaced without removing the valve covers so that makes it alot easier.
Just wondering if anyone on here had done these.

[biostroker]

I've done it on my 7.3 and it took a while-I did have to take the valve covers off and all of the boost pipes, etc above the valve covers, but it wasn't hard to do. Just time consuming. Hope the 6.0 is quicker to do!

[Clay]

well i got it done, it wasn't too bad at all. The GPs on a 6.0 are under the valve cover and can be easily accessed once you remove the inner fender. The fender comes off in about 5 minutes and walla the glow plug rail is right there.
I'm going to do a write up with some more technical info on this since there seems to be a lack of it...i'll post a link to it once i get it done.

[Wilson]

cool. got pics?

[Clay]

I had 3 DCT codes indicating GP failure, on cyl number 2, 5, and 7.
With some help fom Dirk and Marc i decided to tackle #2 first, replace it, clear codes and start it again to see if the code for cyl. 2 came back. If it were to still show this code, then the glow plug control module would be the culprit. Also you can check the GP for resistance. Heres a pic - its blurry and i will get a better pic soon but i had to use my phone cam for this.
Using an ohm meter, check for resistance with one lead on the tip of the GP and the other lead on the threads. Do not hold the leads on the GP with your fingers or it will skew the results. Lay it on the bench and press the leads to the plug.
A new GP showed .5 ohms. If you show anything more than 4 ohms, the GP is bad.

I pulled number 2 GP out and the resitance was off the chart. It was bad.
To get to this plug (front drivers side) I pulled the air box out and was able to get to it. There is a ridgid rail that runs across below the valve cover, this rail has 4 rubber boots that slip down over the GPs in there holes. Pull this off - it should lift right off easy. Now you will see 4 holes containing the GPs. With a 10mm deep socket and a short extension, loosen the GP. Using a magnet, fish the GP from the hole. I have one of those magnet tools that has the extendable pen like handle...worked great. now you can test the GP to make sure the plug is actually the problem and not the module.
To reinstall the plug, again use the magnet, drop the plug in the hole but be sure to NOT angle it towards the front or back of the motor, go straight in and it will slide into its hole. On either side of the GP shaft are oil ports and you don't want to get in into one of those - I hear it is hard to fish back out. Luckily i didn't experience this. Now tilt your magnet down and the GP will let go. Using the 10MM deep socket, tighen it up. This is almost like changing spark plugs but you have to be carefull reinstalling them.
Now for the passenger side. This looks like a nightmare at first glance but don't fret. Jack the truck up and remove the front pasenger side wheel. Now remove the inner fender. Its not hard to get out. There are half a dozen screws to remove and 3 plastic push in keepers. Oh, and theres an elec. line clipped in the back side that goes to the breaks.
Once you get that off, the glow plugs are right there. The tranny fill tube is bolted on right by cyl #3. remove the 10 mm nut and lift the tube off the stud to get it out of the way.
Now look at the rear most cyl. #7. you will notice when you try to remove the GP rail, theres a plastic corner of the heater core housing that is right in the way. I used my sidecutters and trimmed off a small piece of that plastic and the rail was able to clear it. Pull the rail towards you and then down. If it can't get past the heater core housing still, trim some more.
Once the rail is removed, all 4 GPs can be replaced very quickly. I was told by once expert to change all the plugs and told by another to just change the bad ones. I changed all 4 on the passenger side while i was in there with such good access but the drivers side only got one new one. I can easily replace the other 3 when they fail.
I suspect the drivers side would be just as easy by removing the inner fender...i think it was easier than removing the dang factory air box :doh: This is another pic (sorry for the poor quality) that i wanted to show of the three bad plugs. Its hard to make out in this pic but all 3 had cavitation or pitted tips. The 3 on the left were the bad ones, the 2 on the right were the ones i changed that were not bad and their tips are smooth and round. Hard to make out but i'll get better pics in a day or two.


This job took me about 4 hours but should have only taken about 2.5. I stopped numberous times to play dad or answer the phone and i took a few beer breaks. Also had to run to the parts store when i decided to go ahead and replace all 4 on the passenger side.

[Jack_Toepfer]

I wish I heard about the AutoZone discontinued glow plugs that were selling for a penny each...

I'm thinkin you feel the same way.

Is it similar to do the 7.3s too? No idea?

I'm going to be pulling my inner fenders anyway to clearance them for the new tires.

[Clay]

I wish I heard about the AutoZone discontinued glow plugs that were selling for a penny each...

I'm thinkin you feel the same way.

Is it similar to do the 7.3s too? No idea?

I'm going to be pulling my inner fenders anyway to clearance them for the new tires.

No the 7.3 is entirely different....the GPs are under the valve covers.