New 6.0 owners- Tips to prevent common Problems

[Fordnut74]

ALL the following material was borrowed from Mark at Ford Truck Enthusiasts in this thread http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/70...-problems.html And I wnated to address it here as well since this does cover about 95% of all thepreacing I do on the phone about the 6.0.


This will be a series of 4 or 5 posts that list common problems w/ the 6.0's and will then list some tips that MANY GRACIOUS and KNOWLEDGEABLE people here have contributed over the past few years. For the most part, I have just been a scribe, but it has involved quite a bit of research. Some tips are controversial as to whether or not they make a SIGNIFICANT improvement, but the advice is all good I believe.

Much is common sense and known to most folks, but I tried to get as much all in one place as possible.

I encourage feedback and discussion, but want to keep it positive in an effort for alll new 6.0 owners to have the best chance for success.

Please wait till the last one is posted (I will label it as the "LAST"), and then let the discussion fly!!!

Common problems discussed in upcoming posts:
1. EGR systems
2. Turbos sticking
3. Injectors
4. Head gaskets
5. Miscellaneous

[Fordnut74]

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (w/ probable causes):

http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_html/05_update/html/Page_07.html

1. EGR SYSTEMS



Prevent EGR Plugging/Sticking:
Get the most recent flash (it eliminates EGR operation at extended idle)
Use good quality fuel and occaisionally "drive it like you stole it"


Minimize extended idling - especially at rpm's under 1200.
Synthetic oil and fuel additives may help prevent soot which can deposit on your turbo (exhaust side).

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-05-01.php

Resolve EGR Plugging/Sticking:


Delete it:
Do it properly by blocking off flow entirely to EGR valve and cooler.
Some 2005 and up vehicles will throw a code that can only be cleared w/ a tuner.

Disconnect it:

If you just disconnect it, do it properly. Even if it is disconnected, pressures can force it open.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/282640-egr-disconnect-instructions.html

Clean it - Use Carb cleaner, not brake cleaner - keep the fluid out of the weep holes.
New o-ring. Clean EBP tube, MAP sensor hose & manifold opening.

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-05-15.php

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-12.php

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/449995-scary-pics-of-my-11-000-mile-old-egr-valve.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/698376-egr-disconnect-2.html

Replace it "in kind"

[Fordnut74]

2. Turbo sticking

Prevent Turbo Failure:
Stay with your stock Donaldson air filter setup. No need for more unless heavily modded (500hp). Many (most?) after market filters do not filter as well as the stock system.



Use a synthetic 5W40 oil, change at 7500 miles - high temperature resistance.


After towing or running hard, idle for 5 minutes or so. Best to idle until POST-turbo EGT drops to 400.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/632804-turbo-saver.html?highlight=turbo+cool+down

Synthetic oil and fuel additives can help prevent soot which can deposit on your turbo (exhaust side)


Get the most recent flash (it eliminates EGR operation at extended idle)
Open up the exhaust to drop your EGT's



Drive like you stole it would help prevent turbo sticking as well as help with the egr valve.

Reroute your Crankcase Ventilation

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/280387-crankcase-ventilation-rerouting.html

Keep your EGR functioning OR delete it (do it properly by blocking off flow entirely to EGR valve and cooler). Some 2005 and up vehicles will throw a code that can only be cleared w/ a tuner w/ disconnected EGR valve.

Resolve Turbo Problems:

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-05.php

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/702061-failing-turbo.html

VGT or PCM troubleshooting when having a turbo problem DTC P0046 (post 10 in link below)

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/704306-help-turbo-problem-loss-of-power-at-low-rpms.html

[Fordnut74]

3. Injectors

HELP Prevent Injector Stiction (oil side):
Change oil at 5,000 miles, use OEM style filers
Use 5w40 synthetic oil
Oil temp gauge - alarm at 400 degrees
Heat induction flash (replaces the buzz flash)




Resolve Injector Stiction (oil side):


Hot Shot's Secret Oil Additive

http://www.lubricationspecialties.com/

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m4PRN/is_2007_Nov_21/ai_n21119141

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/609446-hot-shots-secret-oil-additive.html?highlight=Hot+Shot

Prolong Injector Life:
Change fuel filter at 10,000 miles, use OEM style filters


Good quality fuel - purchase at high volume stations


After filter change, remove air before starting: 3 cycles of (ignition on for 3 sec, ignition off for 15 sec). Then ignition off for 3 seconds and START.


Find a good additive for lubricity and in event of getting bad fuel (w/ water, low cetane, additives not added, etc).


According to the manual - use an additive when suspect fuel quality problems : non alcohol, water demulsifier

Do not run your tank empty (below 45 psig fuel pressure ruins injectors)


Install a fuel pressure gauge with an alarm point you can set. Stop if it drops below 45 psig


Biodiesel is a great lubricity additive, just remember it can gel. Use an antigel additive, especially in winter


Mods -- ITP Return Regulated Fuel System (equal pressure to all injectors), FASS System - pressure control, air removal

Resolve Injector Failure:


Replace them yourself

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/572658-used-injectors.html#post4355612

http://www.FTEs diesel forums.com/forums/f50/injector-replacement-pictures-172748/

[Fordnut74]

4. Head Gaskets (weak in this area - all suggestions welcome)

Minimize Potential for Head Gasket Problems:
Keep turbo system clean and healthy


Install gauges and alarm at 28 - 30 psi boost (if not running a tuner)

Properly programmed custom tuner can help keep cylinder pressures down and improve reliability in head gaskets.

Let coolant temp and/or oil temp get to operating temp before you start to rag on the truck otherwise you run the risk of stretching the headbolts

[Fordnut74]

5. Miscellaneous (1 of 2)

Sensors, Miscellanous, things that have a failure history (and some upgrade suggestions when they fail)
HPOP - International makes a STC fitting "delete": http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-07-08.php
International Part Number is 1879930c91 Note HPOP is driven by the camshaft, must remove engine (or lift cab) and remove heads.

IPR - Valve installed on top of the HPOP.The solenoid and connector are on top of the HPOP cover plate (behind and to the left of the oil filter).

ICP (has had pig tail and connector failures). Failure will cause truck not to run, or SURGING.Regulator and connector are center of engine (top of the block), on the HPOP cover plate (between the heads).

Injector inlet O-ring leaks
PCM (has has wire chafing and plug issues) - drivers side fender behind the battery.

FICM (has had wire chafing and plug issues) - drivers side valve cover


EBP (or EP) - Drivers side of engine beside the oil dipstick where it makes its bend towards horizontal. Note:- 03-04 EBP was disabled in the programing


VGT Actuator - Clean (carb. Cleaner ONLY) or replace. VGT actuator will cost around $250.Located beside (drivers side) the fuel filter in the engine well.

Turbo - Clean (Carb. Cleaner ONLY) or replace. Links to Tech folder and FDDTS for cleaning procedure:http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-06-05.php

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/702061-failing-turbo.html

[Fordnut74]

5. Miscellaneous (2 of 2) - THIS IS THE LAST ONE I HAVE - please add to it!!




Injectors - Upgrade OR International has released a replacement injector that addresses that issue. They are selling them below $100 each from International.


Oil Leaks - most common leak points:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/622121-oil-leak.html

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/photographs/index3.php

Power Steering Pump - Upgrade to AGR pump when OEM fails
Ball Joints - Upgrade to MOOG greasable ball joints when OEM wears at between 50k and 100k
Sway bar end link (passenger) - prone to early failure - replace
Steering Wobble - Add dual steering stabilizers
Wheel Bearings - revised dust shields (TSB)
Hubs and wheel bearings - OEM not serviceable. Switch to DynaTrac Free Spin or DynaLoc when OEM fails.
Limited Slip Differential - Switch to Detrroit True Trac when OEM fails.
ARP head studs
Torque Converter - switch to Suncoast or Precision Industries when OEM fails
Front Brake Rotors - switch to ART or Powerslot ProStop when OEM fails

[Wilson]

Looks like a really good list.

I have to add that I think the 6.0l gets a bad rap due to the early ones being rushed to market and not fully engineered by Ford (specifically speaking to the calibration). This caused MOST of the headaches out there.

I have not one issue other than EGR related which will be corrected via tune as outlined above.

I personally think the 6.0l is equal or better to the 7.3 when it comes to power and is almost equal on reliability. When time comes for us to get another it will likely be a 6.0l unless you guys got the new 09 or 2010 Ford F150 burning veggie!