Excursion Install

[captgrady]

Just got my tank in today. Had to bend the inner tabs down 90*, level with tank, and reverse the elbows for coolant in & out, so they were lower, with barrels off the elbows, not before.
I'd reaaly like to see photos of the hole in the frame for the fill tube, and inside fender well, or where ever it is routed after the fill inlet in door jam.
Just waiting on gauge pod, mounting bolts for tank, fuel gauge, fill tube, & fill inlet plate for door well, and then I'll be burnin' oil, can't wait.
Is there any other ideas of things I should check before burnin' oil?
Any tips on the excursion install?

[lancaster,pa]

I'm assuming the system for the Excursion has timer cards like the F-series does. I would say to make sure you check them for accuracy before firing up.

Patrick

[Geodad]

My V3 just arrived also, haven't opened it yet - still waiting on 40g Excursion tank from RDS -- did the draft Excursion install manual get out to anyone yet?

thanks!

-gary

[Clay]

I'm assuming the system for the Excursion has timer cards like the F-series does. I would say to make sure you check them for accuracy before firing up.

Patrick

There sure is alot of talk about the accuracy of these timmer cards lately. Its not something to get overyly excited about BEFORE running the system. After you get the system in and start using it, you can play with these timmers and tweek them to your liking.
Jason presets these but actual purge times will vary depending on the length of vegi hose between your return inlet on the tank and the engine.
If you want to set it more accurately so you don't send more diesel to your vegi tank then you can do that by removing the return line and time a purge cycle while monitoring the fuel coming out of that return like, you will see vegi for X amount of seconds and it will turn to diesel when its fully purged. Time this event and set the purge timmer card accordingly but chances are your talking about less that 2 seconds of adjustment. I think Jason sets the purge time for the worst case scenario. Mine puges completely in 7 seconds with the length of hose i have. The run time card is a different issue and he is working on a fix to get it to run longer than 50 seconds without setting the dip switches differently.

[captgrady]

Yes. I will check purge times after install, and purge valve. Also checked coolant tubes in tank, seems okay, but no pressure test.
Has anyone done the 40 gallon excursion tank install? Seems like the fill port on tank could have been put on the back (@ 90*)with fill tube routed up over frame, & there would be no dips in line for oil to collect. Then there wouldn't need to be a hole in frame by fuel lines. Still thinkin' of taking it to my welder to do this, but not sure. Would like feedback.

[captgrady]

Just dryfit after reversing coolant fittings, now tank tabs sit flush on frame for mounting. Does the aft inboard tap location need to be drilled & tapped into frame? I cant see how to get a nut on the top side of frame/strut to secure bolt.
Looks like the lower fual rail will need to be pushed up to accomidate hole in frame and the fill port from tank?
Looks like all hose clamps and hoses will need to be installed on tank before the tank is lifted into place and bolted up?

TIP: had to remove driver's running board, then tank slid under truck no problem. Then used hydraulic jack to lift tank into place.
Tech note- If your Excursion is around 2000, the electrical wiring might actually be the same as the newer models ( It's when they started the change/update, but not for all models). In which case your run wire under fuse block @ engine will be red/green (2000-2001 Excursions.)

Henry, I have an old pressure gauge that goes up to 80 psi, I think I got it from Napa, just says "SW", don't know what kind, will this be adequate?

Anyone know best place to get 2 gauge pillar pod in tan, to mount between drivers window & front windshield on frame?

I can post pics as I go if anyone needs them.
Thanks for everyone's help, this forum will prove to be priceless.

[Fordnut74]

SO glad I finally have a spot to provide support again. I missed this forum as much if not more than a lot of our customers. The moutning tabs on those tansk are supposed to be horizontal, not vertical like the picture shows. I will be all over that on Monday. You may still use it as is, just may require an angle bracket. The horizontal face of the inboard mounting tabs should be 1.5" above tank at the front and .5" above tank at the rear.

[captgrady]

Thanks, Jason
Is this where the hole should be cut in frame?, It seems like if the fwd inboard tap was located aft 1.5-2",(it would line up with crossmember for mounting) I could slide the tank foward enough to use the hole in frame as a pilot hole for 1 3/4"? cutout, there's also a dimple in fenderwell shroud exactly outboard of hole that lines up perfectl, again for pilothole, if this is where the fill tube goes, still not sure how it's routed from fill plate.

[fiveohpatrol]

TIP: had to remove driver's running board, then tank slid under truck no problem. Then used hydraulic jack to lift tank into place.
Tech note- If your Excursion is around 2000, the electrical wiring might actually be the same as the newer models ( It's when they started the change/update, but not for all models). In which case your run wire under fuse block @ engine will be red/green (2000-2001 Excursions.)

thanks for the tip, as I haven't gotten that far yet. I have ran the 12V keyed power to the timer cards and noticed the same thing with the wiring being the same as the newer models. On my 2000 X the wire is white/light blue, which is different than what the instructions say. It was in the specified location with heatshrink on it, as stated though.

-Drew

[captgrady]

Just did the fuel plumbing, took about 5 hours. I thought some of those bolts were going to be impossible, but it all worked out, thank the Vegi Gods!
A few notes for 2000 Excursion-
I pre-soaked all 4 fuel ports w/ PB Blaster the day before.
The fuel line retaining nut on passenger's side uses a 13mm wrench(not 10mm)
I found a 9/16" deep socket most helpful to remove the factory fitting from the back passenger corner, after removing fuel line.
The fuel line retaining bolt on driver's side uses a 10mm wrench
The 4 bolts for the A/C bracket uses a 1/2" socket/wrench.
The belt tensioner bolt in center of belt tensioner uses a 1/2" socket as well.
Also-
My ground wire @ V3 module had to be extended 5", & I also ended up cutting a 1/4" off of the inboard edge of the V3 mounting plate, to give more space between the filter & frame, for removal.
I found that by first drawing out a complete fuel plumbing diagram (by going thru manual), I had a complete understanding of what was going on, and it made life so much easier.

Anyway I was happier then a pig in sh!t when the purge button instantly sent diesel spitting out the back of the V3 tank return port, and then started like a champ. WOOHOO, almost there!!!

Good luck to all still in install stage like me.

Jason, you and your team really have done a great job designing & putting this V3 kit together, what an awesome product.

Chad

[Elvia]

Welcome to the Club Chad

[fiveohpatrol]

get anything else done on the install Chad?

I'm just waiting on the fill tube/door & tank hardware, then I should be up and running shortly after that.

-Drew

[captgrady]

Hey Drew,
Yea I've got all the hoses run, wrapped & and wire tyed up. I cut the fill door in today also. just waiting on the fill tube, so I can then mount tank, cut hole in frame, install fill tube, and I'll be burnin' oil! Hope I can get it done by Friday, we're taking a trip to the evil Kingdom for the weekend & I'm sittin' on 150 gallons of filtered WVO.
total hours:
plumbing- 6 hrs
wiring- 2hrs
v3 install- 1hr

Chad

00' X 7.3L PSD

[fiveohpatrol]

very cool, I'm getting pretty close myself. Just got the V3 mounted tonight and all of the wiring complete and tested. Check valves are in too, so I'll just need to route the fuel & coolant lines and the tank and I'll be ready to rock.

What size hole saw did you use to mount the filler door? I might need to "borrow" one from work tomorrow

[captgrady]

Drew,
Did you get the new install instructions for the EX tank? Shoot me an e-mail, and I'll send the PDF to you. [email protected]
The filler hole cut in door jam uses a 2.5" hole saw.
I pre-wrapped my lines with insulation before installing & wire tying, leave about 4' unwrapped @ V3 end & I left the fuel hoses 3" shorter @ tank end. Ended up cutting off 3.5' of coolant hose off where they tee in. I'm teeing in just in front of oil filler tube on both hoses. Good Luck.
Chad