Curious as to how much of a job it is to install the new pressure switch/relay. Haven't had to do this yet, but would lilke to get advance info. I would imagine the switch itself is a matter of unscrewing the old and replacing with the new. What about the relay? Where and how does it get installed? Thanks. - Patrick
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New pressure switch/relay - installation experience?
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The relay is the easiest part, Mount relay to the frame, attach ground wire to frame then plug to pressure switch and controller plugs. The hardest part is replacing the pressure switch.95 F250XL PSD SuperCab BTS auto , Gearhead Tuned, Vegistroke V3 , Tymar Intake, Stage 1's ADRENALINE HPOP. Absolute CF
Early 99 XLT SuperCab Auto, MBRP 4" Exhaust, DIY Tymar, Autometer Gauges.
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Originally posted by Longstroke View PostThe relay is the easiest part, Mount relay to the frame, attach ground wire to frame then plug to pressure switch and controller plugs. The hardest part is replacing the pressure switch.
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Good post Patrick. Mine will be at my house at the end of the month, so Ill be going through this. I might just snap some pics for everyone during the install.
This may be a good opportunity for me to tinker with my hinged mount so that it swings down from the frame for stuff like this.Vegistrokin since 08/23/08
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Originally posted by Jack_Toepfer View PostGood post Patrick. Mine will be at my house at the end of the month, so Ill be going through this. I might just snap some pics for everyone during the install.
This may be a good opportunity for me to tinker with my hinged mount so that it swings down from the frame for stuff like this.
Will be looking for your pics. Do you already have your hinged mount installed? - Patrick
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It's actually a simple install.
The relay is pretty plug and play as described earlier.
The pressure switch takes a little more work but nothing most people couldn't do in a half hour.
Easiest way I know to do it:
Tape up the teeth of a pair of vice grips and use two of them to clamp off the feed and return line on the tank side of the manifold.
Place catch pan under V3, oil will flow out but trickle off if you have clamped the lines...if not it will continue to siphon off the tank until empty or the parts are back in place...I suggest clamping myself.
Ok to the manifold itself...
The purge solenoid is the largest black item on the manifold (aside from the pump), on top of it is a cap you can turn by hand and remove the magnet section which will clear some room for you to work. remember there is a rubber seal under the cap you turn, don't lose that. The wiring plug unclips by pushing in on the release, this will most likely be on the top side but you should be able to release it with finger pressure.
Once that is out of the way there is a small bolt to the right of the purge solenoid between the filter and purge solenoid, this is a check valve. Remove this and set to the side.
You should be able to access the pressure switch with a box/open wrench...remove, place loc-tite on new switch and replace.
If you cannot work in that space you can also remove the purge solenoid completely with a box or crescent wrench...some use their teeth
All these components go back in the same as they came out with loc-tite only being needed on the pressure switch threads, the others have rubber seals that do the job fine. Do not use plumbers dope/tape etc. as it will clog the injectors/filter/screen etc. if it gets loose in there and will cause issues of some form over time.
I think along with the upcoming pics this should be a pretty simple job overall and not much more than a half hour aside from some spring cleaning should covver it for the most part.
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