motor oil changes and blackstone reports

[triplemoutdoors]

Here is my latest report.



I suck at adding pics. I can never get them large enough to see.

[Clay]

Thanks Clay, that's good to know as well.

What oil do you run in your truck by the way?

Rotella ......

[Allofus123]

It won't help anything more than likely...Blackstone always told me my oil had more life left in it and i could try 6k miles on the next sample and see but i stuck to 5k.

I agree with Clay to the extent that your oil change intervals should be based on your actual useage instead of a fixed hard number. Some people use their trucks as a daily driver while others use it as a daily hauler and everything inbetween. Two totally different useage that would require different demands on the oil. Doing an oil analysis gives you some good insight on how well your oil is holding up with your useage.

[Marv]

Thanks Clay, that's good to know as well.

What oil do you run in your truck by the way?

[Clay]

I've been usually changing mine around 5K, but I think I'm going to take Greasy's advice and look at maybe doing 3000 to 3500 instead. Not much of a difference, but if it helps me avoid any major problems, I don't mind paying for the oil.

It won't help anything more than likely...Blackstone always told me my oil had more life left in it and i could try 6k miles on the next sample and see but i stuck to 5k.

[Marv]

Good info in here by the way...I appreciate everyone posting up their experiences.

[Marv]

Marv,
Dana mentioned that motor oil left in the fridge overnight will be thick but it should still flow. If it has a jello-like appearance, it indicates ploy in your motor oil. If the jello-like appearance is still present after warming to room temp, even worse. - Patrick

Excellent Patrick, thanks! That's a pretty cool way to run a quick test to see what's going on.

I actually just changed my oil a couple weeks ago and still have it sitting at the house. I might get a sample out and try that.

[Marv]

I believe I started a thread about this 3 months ago and everyone said it was horse hockey,I change mine at 3500 miles max.This insures 1)no poly,2) no loss of MPG,and 3)Great piece of mind that I'm not ruining a engine that costs several thousand $$$$ to rebuild(that one is most important to me).I drove truck for several years and the most important thing I learned was take care of your engine =,cuz chrome don't get ya home...good luck..greasy

I've been usually changing mine around 5K, but I think I'm going to take Greasy's advice and look at maybe doing 3000 to 3500 instead. Not much of a difference, but if it helps me avoid any major problems, I don't mind paying for the oil.

[frashdog]

Was this a single tank conversion or a two tank...big huge difference and alot of peeps who post crap like that don't know the difference and why one will destroy your engine and why the other wont.
FWIW, i had leaking injectors once - you all have heard about this i think - and the result was 10 guarts of fuel (vegi) in my crankcase. Yes, i said 10 guarts.
The following blackstone report showed elevated wear - no suprise there.
After the repair and a crank case flush, the next blackstone came back normal...and the one after that as well. I have stopped doing blackstone as they continued to be normal with 5k miles at each sample and change.
With our 2 tank systems, you have little to worry about when it comes to blow by - unless your using something other than #2 in your main tank.

It was a two tank system and he said he was using clean oil.

Again, I really do not think the wvo was the cause, it just brought up many concerns with it's roll and the chances of what pol'd oil may do. I also think there are too many variables and unknowns to make a solid case of wvo being the cause with many motor failures "read" or "heard" about.

I will say, I am not impressed with any tdi wvo kits out there on many levels.
I pieced the tdi kit together based on about 4 years of researching problems and wvo systems available.

With that, I did read that a tdi injector retailer recomends that you pull and inspect, clean and test the injectors at wvo conversion then every 60K miles.

[Clay]

i think i'll send another sample in next oil change...in about a month probably

[Allofus123]

I started doing blackstone reports as much for the peace of mind as anything. I have 135k on the 02 7.3 and change my oil every 5k. Rotella 15w/40 is what I use and I use no additives to either oil or fuel.

Last report showed my oil with < 0.5% fuel and the universal average is <2.0% so no problem on my end. Here were the comments given on my last report:

The universal averages column shows typical wear from this type of engine after 5276 miles on the oil. Wear looks pretty good when compared to averages, with nothing reading out of order, indicating well-functioning parts inside the engine operating in the proper balance. Insolubles (carbon/metal solids) were low at 0.3%; oil filtration and combustion are effective. The viscosity was low for a 40-weight, but that may be influenced by the vegistroke. Sodium read exorbitantly high, but that's also something we see with vegetable oil kits. Nice report!

[Clay]

The tdi motor that I read about basically selfdestructed. Due to him running wvo for 60k+ miles, most were pointing at the wvo.
The odd thing about the problems with this motor, besides increasing oil consumption, was the input compressor of the turbo got destroyed, he put another turbo on hoping the turbo was the problem and it got destroyed right away. They then pulled the head off. Intake valves were really gooky, wicked build up. This was the evidence that many used to defend the wvo to blame. Suspect was the puking of crankcase oil hitting the turbo blades at high speed breaking the wheel up and sending peices into the cylinders, chipped piston and scored up walls found. Making blowby worse and the down ward spiral to destruction goes. So the arguement became whether or not the wvo even had anything to do with it or just made the inevitable happen sooner. Was it the wvo that caused the blow by? Doubt it. I see a simple mechanical failure myself it as simple as foriegn debris in the intake starting the whole thing?

Not saying wvo poly'd is not an issue here. I do believe there are some concerns with wvo and poly that should be payed attention to but can be overcome. It was a good read to get the different view points/positions on wvo and potential issues.

Note to self :inspect input turbowheel next time changing air filter.

Was this a single tank conversion or a two tank...big huge difference and alot of peeps who post crap like that don't know the difference and why one will destroy your engine and why the other wont.
FWIW, i had leaking injectors once - you all have heard about this i think - and the result was 10 guarts of fuel (vegi) in my crankcase. Yes, i said 10 guarts.
The following blackstone report showed elevated wear - no suprise there.
After the repair and a crank case flush, the next blackstone came back normal...and the one after that as well. I have stopped doing blackstone as they continued to be normal with 5k miles at each sample and change.
With our 2 tank systems, you have little to worry about when it comes to blow by - unless your using something other than #2 in your main tank.

[frashdog]

The tdi motor that I read about basically selfdestructed. Due to him running wvo for 60k+ miles, most were pointing at the wvo.

The odd thing about the problems with this motor, besides increasing oil consumption, was the input compressor of the turbo got destroyed, he put another turbo on hoping the turbo was the problem and it got destroyed right away. They then pulled the head off. Intake valves were really gooky, wicked build up. This was the evidence that many used to defend the wvo to blame. Suspect was the puking of crankcase oil hitting the turbo blades at high speed breaking the wheel up and sending peices into the cylinders, chipped piston and scored up walls found. Making blowby worse and the down ward spiral to destruction goes. So the arguement became whether or not the wvo even had anything to do with it or just made the inevitable happen sooner. Was it the wvo that caused the blow by? Doubt it. I see a simple mechanical failure myself it as simple as foriegn debris in the intake starting the whole thing?

Not saying wvo poly'd is not an issue here. I do believe there are some concerns with wvo and poly that should be payed attention to but can be overcome. It was a good read to get the different view points/positions on wvo and potential issues.

Note to self :inspect input turbowheel next time changing air filter.

[greasyX]

Motocraft spec oil(factory spec crimsom colored container),at oil change i replace two quarts oil with Lucas SYNTHETIC oil stabilizer.Last march started @-15 before bumping purge time,no problem.Right now ford is doing a big maintence deal,I wonder if that includes parts only?On average by shortening oil interval you wil spend $80-$100 more per year on oil changes(12-15,000 miles yearly)..good luck and don't to change stock fuel fuel filter every 3-4 oil changes when on WVO,the less #2 you use,the more gunk comes out of tank and into filter(I use Startron Enyzme treatment for Insurance)..greasy

[Clay]

lol.

Take a print screen and cut out that stuff in paint.
Your post was enough info for me though.

1.5% fuel in the oil. BUT is that fuel WVO or #2? Would 1.5% of WVO react differently than #2? If so, would 1.5% WVO be above the acceptable standard for WVO?

Heres my take on this...
Blowby occers prior to the engine getting hot. When the engine is cold the rings do not seat fully and #2 will pass by. There are additives in the oil to combat this small content of #2 but these additives do nothing for vegi oil.
Since we use a 2 tank system and start up on diesel and switch ver to vegi oly when warm, their should be NO vegi getting past the rings. This is another reason to ALWAYS purge your system and not start up on a cold engine or even below normal operating temp.
People using Bio-D for start ups need to be aware that this problem can also effect them. I have seen pics of polymerized crank case oil and you will not be draining it out, you will need a scoop or putty knife to remove it. It will destroy the engine.
So do'nt be blending vegi or other strange stuff in your main tank.