Pressure Gauge = Must Have

[FastCote]

Just wanted to suggest to anyone that may be on the fence or just not know that the pressure gauge option is, in my opinion, an essential addition. In fact, I think it should just be part of the standard package. The difference between "is the green light on" and the exact amount of pressure the system is making is night and day (kinda like the new color scheme here - cheap shot )

I chose the above the rear view mirror option because i already have a DashHawk on my pillar. I think that location works well, and the Autometer gauges are sharper looking (and better) than the IssPro that is in the standard system.


If you don't have one, GET ONE! (ask Clay).

[skyskijason]

I second this emotion! My FP gauge was broke (mech. gauges and VO/bio-d don't play well together!) for a couple weeks. I'd rather drive w/o a speedometer!!!

I'll put in a plug for thr DiPricol Optix series. The black-faced gauges are a very close match for the early PSD's, dunno how the white ones look in the late-model trucks though...

Here's the Ex's pod:


Same stuff in the F350 except I have a HPO press gauge instead of the temp on the A-pillar pod. The temp and a couple more gauges will go above the rearview. Of course, I'll still use the ScangaugeII which displays 4 gauges at a time too! Hoping I'll have so much to do soon I can justify getting a driver!:chuckles:

[Clay]

Yes, I have always suggested that peeps get a FP guage. Takes all the guess work out of the "green light flickering off".

[lamintdog]

I second this emotion! My FP gauge was broke (mech. gauges and VO/bio-d don't play well together!) for a couple weeks. I'd rather drive w/o a speedometer!!!

I'll put in a plug for thr DiPricol Optix series. The black-faced gauges are a very close match for the early PSD's, dunno how the white ones look in the late-model trucks though...

Here's the Ex's pod:


Same stuff in the F350 except I have a HPO press gauge instead of the temp on the A-pillar pod. The temp and a couple more gauges will go above the rearview. Of course, I'll still use the ScangaugeII which displays 4 gauges at a time too! Hoping I'll have so much to do soon I can justify getting a driver!:chuckles:

I'm @ Dieselmanor now quoting out the same gauge package you have - the black DI Optix gauges light up green at night - perfect match to stock 02 gauges. Nice find.

Quick questions:

I assume you went with an electric fuel pressure gauge for VO instead of mechanical based on what you said?

Also - your selector switch for fuel/trans temp - good idea - did you wire that youself or did the parts come in a kit?

Did you get the DiPricol weatherpack connector, thermocouple & leadwire upgrade (would probably be worth it for $17 IMO)?

Lastly - where did you get the 4 pod A-pillar and did you have to paint it to match? I only see up to 3 on their site and they're all black ABS that need paint matching...I need tan like what you've got.

Thanks!

[Jack_Toepfer]

I'm patiently waiting a nice deal on the gauge... so its in the works.

BUT - Doesn't the flickering light mean the fuel pressure is too low to sustain drivability on VO?

The fuel gauge tells me if its sucking air, the only other option is fuel pressure. Right?

[Clay]

i have never seen the guage pod either. I think all of them come in black and have to be painted.
My overhead 2 pod came in black but i didn't paint it because i have lots of black trim on the inside so it looks fine.

[frashdog]

I cound not imagine not having a fp guage.

Obviously the sender is in a "common" area? Measures both the wvo and #2. Mine is installed right where the wvo enters the heads. Allows me to see stock #2 fp at the ends of the rails, drops to about 47psi under heavey pedal, 56psi at idle. On vo I'm at 72psi idle, crusing depends on filter but I get about 5,000miles on average before it gets down below 60psi when pushing hard on it. Note I, have the DFA HIH and it really does not have the flow rate a standard 3/8" line does. The first system I had, had a standard 3/8" line and I could not bring it down 1psi under full pedal. The HIH restricts flow enough for me to pull the psi down up to 10psi in some cases...

So anyways, the fp sender is between the checkvalves.

QUESTIONS:
-Does anyone see fuel pressure spikes when starting?
*Like 80-90+psi? Since I did not have the fp guage before the wvo system I do not know if I had the fp spikes before.

-Ever notice the pressure in the rails stays after shut down?
*Stock system is made to bleed down pressure after shut down. Putting checkvalves prevents this. Some one else with experience with regulated returns said their first models did not allow bleed down after shut down and made for extended warm starting. The stock bleed down hole is in the stock fp regulator. I'm sure I could rig the purge solenoid to relieve this pressure after shut down if no one has any ideas.

[lamintdog]

I'm patiently waiting a nice deal on the gauge... so its in the works.

BUT - Doesn't the flickering light mean the fuel pressure is too low to sustain drivability on VO?

The fuel gauge tells me if its sucking air, the only other option is fuel pressure. Right?

Yes - flickering large square light = fuel pressure in veg system is less than the requirement to override the stock diesel pump pressure (which was necessary prior to DFA adding the stock pump shutoff/bypass wiring when the vo pump came on - back on the V2 system [no sense in the stock pump churning against the VO pump] I'm guessing stock pump shutoff is standard on the V3 now.). I believe the VO pressure needs to be above ~55psi to keep the LED illuminated, but confirm that reading with Clay or DFA.

Not sure how the fuel gauge would tell you it's sucking air?... I would assume the fuel pressure gauge could tell you that by a drop in pressure (air can condense more than liquid,etc)... The only other option I can think of for fuel gauges that you'd want to keep an eye on is fuel temp... but the last leg prior to injection, meaning engine temp (fuel rail through the head) should take care of that regardless...

[skyskijason]

I'm @ Dieselmanor now quoting out the same gauge package you have - the black DI Optix gauges light up green at night - perfect match to stock 02 gauges. Nice find.

Quick questions:

I assume you went with an electric fuel pressure gauge for VO instead of mechanical based on what you said?

Also - your selector switch for fuel/trans temp - good idea - did you wire that youself or did the parts come in a kit?

Did you get the DiPricol weatherpack connector, thermocouple & leadwire upgrade (would probably be worth it for $17 IMO)?

Lastly - where did you get the 4 pod A-pillar and did you have to paint it to match? I only see up to 3 on their site and they're all black ABS that need paint matching...I need tan like what you've got.

Thanks!

You have to call David and tell him you want a 4 gauge Optix package and pillar mount. Last I looked, he still didn't have 4 pod listed...

Yes, get the elect FP gauge. Also get the wiring harness thingy and thermocouple dealy bob and paint to match your truck (he'll ask ya color choices for your year) - Just tell David to hook you up like Jason from GA!! (he's just sold the same 'package' to a couple of friends!) It was about $650 w/ shipping, IIRC. They also have 24/7 helpline for install probs!

I just got an extra sending unit for temp, they are like $10 at autoparts, 'bout what DM charged me too I think. Wired the 2 senders to the 'outside pins' on a spdt switch (micro-mini switch) and center wire to gauge. You can get a 6 pos rotary switch from Radiosmack and measure temps all over the place. (coolant in different places, oil temp, differential temp, etc)

[skyskijason]

I cound not imagine not having a fp guage.

Obviously the sender is in a "common" area?

So anyways, the fp sender is between the checkvalves.

QUESTIONS:
-Does anyone see fuel pressure spikes when starting?
*Like 80-90+psi? Since I did not have the fp guage before the wvo system I do not know if I had the fp spikes before.

-Ever notice the pressure in the rails stays after shut down?
*Stock system is made to bleed down pressure after shut down. Putting checkvalves prevents this. Some one else with experience with regulated returns said their first models did not allow bleed down after shut down and made for extended warm starting. The stock bleed down hole is in the stock fp regulator. I'm sure I could rig the purge solenoid to relieve this pressure after shut down if no one has any ideas.

Yes, my FP sender is between the CV's so I get both fuels. Funny thing happened this AM. I jump in F350 to drive my little 3 miles commute to jobsite and when I hit main road and accelerated my FP dropped below 40psi on diesel OMG, I forgot this last 1/4 tank of fuel in diesel tank is B100 and its prolly jelly at this AM's 40ish degrees!! Good thing I got a heated VO system - hit the switch (my truck is 'manual' switch) and BAM 65psi, love it...

Back on track, fuel pressure spikes!! OH YEAH BABY! This is universal, just most people don't know it happening. "Normal" spikes can be as high as 150psi and bad injectors can cause triple that. Why? It has to do with how the 'split shot' injectors work. The 'pause' in the injection event allows some of the pressure from injectors to feed into fuel rails. Stock configuration allows this to happen w/o spikes by putting holes inthe stock CV's (NOW ya know why they're like that!). I almost ELIMINATED the spikes by going to single-shot injectors. (We should start a thread about this ENORMOUS improvement I made to my truck!)

Ok, FP remains in the rails. This was freaking me out when I first did my DIY conversion. I was worried about fuel leaking past an injector o-ring or something and filling a cylinder w/fuel. (its only a problem IF the liquid refuses to compress, right?) I ended up being comforted by the guys at Swamps (who I got my 'new' injectors from). They assured me that short of a catastrophic injector hardware failure, this would not happen. So, pressure in the rails = OK. 70,000 veggie miles later, nothing broke yet!

[lamintdog]

Thanks for that info. How were the gauge installs in your opinion?

It was about $650 w/ shipping, IIRC.

OUCH. I'm gonna shop around a little... but I know, it's true you usually get what you pay for...

I just got an extra sending unit for temp, they are like $10 at autoparts, 'bout what DM charged me too I think. Wired the 2 senders to the 'outside pins' on a spdt switch (micro-mini switch) and center wire to gauge. You can get a 6 pos rotary switch from Radiosmack and measure temps all over the place. (coolant in different places, oil temp, differential temp, etc)

Cool - I might pop back for a question or two on this if I get there...

[Jack_Toepfer]

Yes - flickering large square light = fuel pressure in veg system is less than the requirement to override the stock diesel pump pressure (which was necessary prior to DFA adding the stock pump shutoff/bypass wiring when the vo pump came on - back on the V2 system [no sense in the stock pump churning against the VO pump] I'm guessing stock pump shutoff is standard on the V3 now.). I believe the VO pressure needs to be above ~55psi to keep the LED illuminated, but confirm that reading with Clay or DFA.

Not sure how the fuel gauge would tell you it's sucking air?... I would assume the fuel pressure gauge could tell you that by a drop in pressure (air can condense more than liquid,etc)... The only other option I can think of for fuel gauges that you'd want to keep an eye on is fuel temp... but the last leg prior to injection, meaning engine temp (fuel rail through the head) should take care of that regardless...

The flickering light and/or gauge wouldn't show that it is sucking air. If the light was flickering that would mean - low FP or air. The fuel gauge would tell me if it was air or not, which would narrow it down to 1 thing, low FP. Watching the gauge could be fun and all... but when the pressure drops below an acceptable range the V3 tells you.

Why buy another "notifier" when your pressure is down? Don't you guys carry spare filters with you anyway? When the light flickers, get out of the pedal. If it steadys back out... your pressure is low, but you'll get where you're going. If it flickers no matter what, change the filter.


As far as the gauge I'm looking at, it has 2 leads... nothing else. Is there a harness that I need or something? It is used, and the kid has no idea what he is talking about.

[lamintdog]

The flickering light and/or gauge wouldn't show that it is sucking air. If the light was flickering that would mean - low FP or air.

?

Low FP could be either from a clogged filter or air as you mention above - which is what I was saying about the pressure gauge indicating a possible air leak, not the fuel gauge?

The fuel gauge would tell me if it was air or not...

I am assuming that any reference to 'fuel gauge' means the fuel level gauge. If so, can you explain your reasoning above?

Why buy another "notifier" when your pressure is down? Don't you guys carry spare filters with you anyway? When the light flickers, get out of the pedal. If it steadys back out... your pressure is low, but you'll get where you're going. If it flickers no matter what, change the filter.

You are describing the basic difference between an indicator/notification light and a gauge for monitoring - whatever it may be. Either will work to notify you of a specific set point condition, but a gauge will show you constant feedback in your system - how fuel pressure fluctuates as you drive it, what it looks like in various driving conditions, temps, throttle positions, etc. In general, it allows better visibility over your system's behavior (IMO).


Question: How do you know if your flashing indicator light (i.e. FP switch) is working correctly?

This is one of the reasons why I'm researching gauges for myself now. I haven't had any for 18months and although I've been fine, it's worth it to me to know what's going on and get advanced warning on any potential would-be problems....

[Jack_Toepfer]

I think I have to reset how you're thinking I'm saying something.

That light can indicate 2 things.
- low FP
- the pickup is not submerged in the oil in your tank

To eliminate the 2nd option, look at how much oil is in the tank. If it is a full tank, you're not sucking air.
Now you're down to low FP which would be the result of a clogged filter.
You don't need a gauge to tell that.

I know my light works because I've gone through about 4 filters. I made the noob mistake of pouring the bottom of a barrel into my tank.

I feel the need to monitor everything, which is why I'm getting the gauge. I still do not think it is necessary.

[Fordnut74]

Just throw in my .02 here. The fuel pressure gage is a useful item to have, and int he event of troubleshooting, is the #1 aid. ANd on the V3 where we have the fuel pressure test port(schrader valve) that is a common pressure point, meaning that it sees fuel rail pressure, be it diesel or VO. SO that is a great spot for putting a sending unit. Just use an elbow to point it up for clearance. I will likely officially add the gage pressure gage option on the site soon. Surprisingly most people don't want the extra gages. SOme don't even want an extra level gage. Only us true enthusiasts get off with a cockpit of information. Oh and the reason we use the Isspro gage is they closely resemble the factory gage pattern on most of the Ford trucks, and Isspro is literally about a 100 yards down the road from us.

On another note, we are looking at putting together some gage packages using the DiPricol gages. THose things are pretty sweet, and the gage package will include a HPOP pressure option